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Athens

Craggy coves and sandy bays form the magnificent combination that is the coastline of Athens. Therefore at the end of an fall afternoon, I found myself with a not unpleasant dilemma: where to head to relax bones still aching for a final taste of summer sun. For Athens offers something that many continental destinations do not: a coastline of more than 40 miles dotted with beaches many a Greek island would envy.

During the off-season, the coasts of the region still have a strong appeal, as I found when taking a dip into a fading sun across the bay of Vouliagmeni. For those seeking revitalization in azure seas ready to turn golden as the sun sets, bathing off one of the coastline's accessible or exclusive beaches does not disappoint.

With sea salt still on my skin, I sat at Sardelaki, a eatery whose Mediterranean fare is as excellent as the breathtaking panorama of the inlet it sits on. In a tribute to times past, the meze is served on large wooden trays.

Athens is as celebrated for its elevations as its coastline: natural elevations within view of the Acropolis that make it a rich resource for strollers when the weather cools. For those who want to get away from a metropolis that sprawls across almost 200 square miles, these stone formations – holders of wonderful titles such as the Hill of the Nymphs and the Hill of the Muses – are a must.

In my opinion, this historic city is Europe’s most spiritual and magnificent.

If you climb the summit of Lycabettus Hill, the city’s tallest peak, either by foot or on the funicular rail car, the reward is a spectacular vista of the whole gulf and the islands beyond.

If you want to stay centrally, the ancient Plaka neighborhood remains the ideal location. The traditional a classic hotel hotel has doubles looking on to the northern face of the Acropolis from about £120 bed and breakfast. In the same area, Zorbas is a favourite eatery with residents and serves the juiciest lamb chops. With views of the Acropolis, Athens’ rooftop restaurants are highly evocative and perfect for warm autumn evenings – for a real treat head to a top restaurant or the award-winning fine dining establishment.

The Sicilian Capital

Believe Neapolitan margherita is the last word in pizza? Think again. In this city they prefer sfincione, a tender, well-risen slice of bread topped with intense, onion-heavy sauce and topped with local cheese and herbs. Hearty, satisfying and comforting, it’s sold in shops, kiosks and stalls all over the city (Via Maqueda in the historic centre usually has multiple sellers).

We try it at a kiosk on a central square, near where we’re staying. A local spot often has big lines, but they progress fast as young staff serve slices of the pizza, as well as arancini and chickpea fritters. There are a couple of seats under the trees outside, but we eat as we stroll into town along narrow Via Alloro. This is a pleasant stroll in autumn but wouldn’t be so in the heat. As hot spells swept Europe this year, temperatures in Palermo topped 104F in the shadow. At the summer's peak one sunbaked corner reached an unprecedented 70C at ground level.

We stroll the streets and savour how its long history is written in its streets.

Now, as the climate rise to 24C by mid-afternoon, we can wander the city and appreciate how its long history is visible in its roads. Walking by historic buildings, and a famous coffee shop, the city’s first coffee house, we take in the unique architecture of the 12th-century San Cataldo Church; a main square, with its 16th-century fountain, installed under Spanish rule; and the grand church, built on the location of a ninth-century mosque.

On the way back we take a side trip to Vucciria market, the origins of which also stretch back over 1,000 years. Some decry its commercialization, but it is still noisy and brilliantly theatrical. Feeling brave, we pause for a traditional pani câ meusa, which is surprisingly OK, with its mildly sugary “filling” balanced by cheese topping. The vendor is particularly proud of his grilled goat’s intestines but, unfortunately, no amount of salt and lemon can make those a delight for me.

We’re glad to return to quieter the old quarter, the historic district to the eastern part, which was damaged in the World War II and declined for decades before being revitalized this century. Maison Butera (ocean-facing rooms from €161 B&B) is a four-room B&B with many attractions close by. Nearby is Palazzo Butera, a baroque grand building restored and reopened in 2021 to house the Valsecchi art collection, which features works by contemporary artists and Andy Warhol.

Next day we walk a short distance to the city's gardens, with its record-breaking multi-trunk fig tree. Birds are singing their hearts out as the sun pours down. Soon we’ll be in London, the time will change and the cold season will begin. We enjoy a last week in the light.

The Austrian Capital

While lamenting the end of summer and spending time at seaside spots and bathing spots on the branches of the Danube, I’m now chasing a different color. Vienna is a metropolis of green spaces and well-kept lawns, meadow sweeps and woodland belts, which exchange their emerald halo for a golden and yellowish tint the locals call Goldener Herbst.

I leave behind the impressive buildings and cobblestones of the downtown. To the southwest of it, a famous park extends from the grand Habsburg summer residence, where the gold isn’t limited for the interior, and makes its way into pathways of tall bronzed hedgerows and curved walkways that go to the butter-yellow palace.

To the eastern part, in the city’s a large park, I walk beneath the chestnut trees of the Hauptallee, an avenue that’s almost five kilometers long and ancient. On the edge of the park, the retro-styled a trendy hotel (rooms from €78 with breakfast) is a perfectly placed getaway.

In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a long-standing commitment to encouraging green spaces and fostering local culture), the fall brings a abundance of seasonal ingredients on menus. Squash soup is the classic dish – best devoured in a wood-panelled pub such as the art-splashed Am Nordpol 3 – and followed with a breaded cutlet.

Vienna is a city of parks and gardens that swap their green cover for a rusty amber and ochre glow.

Little known, the capital is the only continental city to produce vintage within its urban area, with 1,723 acres of vineyards. There are 14 official city hiking trails, known as Stadtwanderwege. Track 1 leads you through the vintner lands of a district. Relax in a hillside wine tavern such as a local winery, drinking a citrussy grüner veltliner with a platter (an assortment of cold cuts and dairy), while soaking up the beautiful urban view.

The days are getting shorter, but now is the ideal moment to wander among Vienna’s grand buildings, museums and old homes – a {cultural crop|